There’s no end in sight to the commotion: after the riotous Tohu Bohu comes Matéria, causing a stir with shopping bags in hand! Guillaume Dubœuf (ex-Palégrié) has taken over the neighboring space that served as his pasta lab, and – together with his partner Pauline Horteur – turned it into a slick counter-dining spot-cum-grocery store with a fluent Italian accent, where you can pick up some serious pantry staples. Most of which end up on the menu, as toppings on pizza al taglio or in knockout pasta dishes, all handmade fresh by the boss himself, like cavatelli served with creamed parsley and spinach, smoked Arctic char and preserved artichokes. Good to know: on weekday evenings, the counter shifts into a lively communal sit-up spot, often hosting chefs in residence. · Tami Taylor

Shopping list: Fresh pasta made with organic flour from Molino Augustini in Le Marche (€12-36 per kilo), Piedmontese sauces from La Favorita Fish (€4-6.50) and Tuscan charcuterie from Le Selve Di Vallolmo (pancetta at €23 per kilo).