Raising the bar without raising an eyebrow? Léo Bocaccio first picked up the trick just down the street at Palégrié Chez l’Henri (Best Restaurant Fooding Guide 2024). Now he brings that same spirit to the former Fleur de Vignes wine bar, reworked with floral carpet, grid-like shelves stacked with bottles and, center stage, a circular counter wrapped around Clément Masson’s beechwood-fired oven. The twenty-something chef (and Marcon and Ducasse alumnus) bakes his bread over at Guillaume Monjuré’s Palégrié and sources ultra-local produce through him too, shaping it into lively, Italian-leaning dishes – take the pizzette, always in play. Pair with carefully curated wines from Grenoble wine bar Harvest, with a strong local lineup (Jérémy Bricka, Les 13 Lunes, Domaine des Ardoisières…). · Tami Taylor

Ate: A spritely starter of wood-fired braised spinach with preserved lemon, fresh goat cheese and toasted pistachios; punchy half-moon pasta with shredded lamb, mozzarella cream, shiitake and salad burnet; and a warm chocolate mousse lifted by dried capers.

Price: Set menus €32 (lunch) and €38 (lunch and dinner, pizzetta included).