“Flirting is like wine: it should stay natural.” The poster from the Paye Ton Pinard collective sets the tone, next to a bookcase of queer reads and a shimmering red fringe curtain edged in oh-so-sexy strip lighting. At the gloriously festive Rutilantes, Emilie Alexandre (who used to work at La Gélinotte base camp in the Belledonne mountains) has created the kind of bar everyone wishes they had nearby, with a seventies-style storefront and logo, raw concrete floors and a Formica bar. Here, expertly crafted softs (Casabonita tonic, Hibis Juice bissap), natural wines (Moritz Prado, France Gonzalvez, Les Vins Mont Val), organic beers from Brasserie Belledonne and wallet-friendly cocktails (€7 gin and tonic, €8 negroni) flow alongside gigs, exhibitions and homemade vegetarian plates by Manon Ailloud – spinach and Bleu de Sassenage toast; soy-marinated egg with sesame oil, garlic, ginger, and cloud ear mushrooms – or local female guest chefs popping up for the night (Yasmin Nick-Belkhodja of Minouch, the duo Makiko and Yuko). Come as you are – the party already has! · Tami Taylor
Drank: An incredibly aromatic glass of Hannah, an orange wine by Fatim Zahra Sabri from Le Chai Volant vineyard in Roussillon, amphora-aged for several months after a short maceration (€6 a glass, €36 a bottle).
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