Benjamin Poussardin’s heart and taste buds clearly have a hankering for clean wines… But in his Bellecave that’s packed to the brim with bottles, he’s careful not to be too pushy with his Bellecombe (get it?) clientele, by offering up a selection of traditional vintages as well. To the left, a wealth of 500 labels of craft beer (!), including a few non-alcoholic options; to the right, around 1,500 bottles of mainly French wines, with a beautiful selection of magnums for those who are afraid of missing out on the fun. To help us see (and drink) more clearly, his sidekick Mauro Cos was there to advise us the day we went: Long Courrier, a blend of ugni blanc, rolle and clairette produced by Laura Aillaud in the Luberon (€26.50 a bottle); Sauvage, a gamay vinified by Baptiste Nayrand less than 25 kilometers from the wine shop (€30); a Savoie altesse from the Ferrands (€26.90). // Pippi Johansson 

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Les Canons du Jean 2019, a Jura chardonnay from Julien Crinquand (€38).