Maison Baraban

In the name of friendship, good times and the holy feast! United by the sacred bonds of sharing (and the Institut Paul-Bocuse), Hugo Bossard (Bistrot Berthet), Philippe Descournut (ex-Jumble) and Cédric Vaujany (chef at Maison d’Anthouard) set out to plant barabans (“dandelions” in Lyonnais slang) near Cours Tolstoï. In a former butcher’s shop, you’ll now find this classy pantry, filled with take-away dishes: slow-roasted lamb shoulder, blanquette de veau, stuffed cabbage… At lunch, the trio serves mouthwatering build-your-own menus, like the day we went: a delightful watermelon, feta and mint salad; a plump cheese, ham and zucchini galette lounging over a broad bean, lardon and onion salad; plus a gigantic praline chocolate chip cookie for dessert. There are also a few canned goods up for grabs and, on Saturdays, roasted meats! Bonus: they opened up a second shop in Lyon’s 6th arrondissement. // Pippi Johansson 

THE HIDDEN GEM: The pâté en croûte that combines free-range pork, black trumpet mushrooms, kombu and sprats (€50/kg), made in collaboration with the restaurant Armada.