Look no further for the daron (“father”) of this cellar: Frédéric Malpart has been running this place since 2018. And the owner (ex-Siffleur de Ballons) provides the Folie-Méricourt neighborhood with no fewer than 450 labels of natural wine, which you can sip while nibbling on well-sourced cheeses and charcuterie. Expect things like a 100% Gamay Juliénas from the prodigious Yann Bertrand (€23 a bottle), Calcinaires, a Roussillon red blend from the Domaine Gauby (€21), or Clos de Midi, a Saumur Chenin from Arnaud Lambert (€15)… // Ninsu 

The bullet-proof bottle: Fly Me to the Moon, an Ardèche Syrah from the promising Pauline Maziou (€22 a bottle).