Rock Bottles

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After quenching wine-loving Paris’ thirst during France’s national lockdowns aboard his bright-red wine delivery tricycle, British oenophile Oliver Gage ended up settling down near Montmartre. In his new wine shop with rough walls and rafters, the former musician now plays natural melodies by offering up little-known bottles produced by activist winemakers: Ploum, a sparkling Hérault wine from the Domaine L’Absurde Génie des Fleurs (€17 a bottle), Mariage Plus Vieux, an Alsatian red from the Domaine In Black (€18), Flaveo, a Meurthe white from Stéphane Cyran (€20)… There are other treasures to explore, like Auvergne ciders from the Domaine No Control, Catalan macerated wines from Metamorphika and a beautiful selection of magnums (Val de Combrès, Laurence Manya…) so you can live life to the fullest. // A.A.

The bullet-proof bottle: Dark Ages, a white from the Czech estate 7 Řádků (€22).

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