Yassas! Mikaela Liaroutsos is doubling down on the amount of Hellenic audacity in the 18th arrondissement of Paris with L’Ouzeri, a neo-tavern with a midnight blue facade, just like its sister location Etsi, where the small plates will have you dancing the sirtaki. In a space with pared-down style (a veined bar, brick walls, small curtains), the chef sent out plenty of mezze the night we went: juicy mussels cooked in ouzo; a lovely octopus salad with carrots, endives, celery and dill; the house’s unmissable and exceptionally creamy taramasalata; crispy yet tender spanakopita stuffed with spinach and Memmos feta; an incredible horta (a sort of cooked salad) with stewed chard and lemony herbs, all with subtle notes of tomato; delicious paprika-marinated chicken skewers served with toasted pita bread; before some indulgent kourkoubinia, a sort of rolled flaky pastry with honey and pistachios.

FEELING THIRSTY? Rather unorthodox Greek wines: there’s a Xinomavro from the Tetramythos winery (€8 a glass), a Muscadelle-Goustolodi blend from the Sclavos winery (€35 a bottle)… Unless you decide to opt for a Greek beer (€4.50 to €6.50) or a glass of ouzo (€5-7).
PRICE: Plates €5-14.