Le Maquis

Fire warning! Le Maquis, a stand-out bistro with modest red banquettes, a series of small arches, a cozy zinc-topped bar and ageless tiling, is causing mass hysteria even beyond the borders of Paris’ 18th arrondissement. It’s where Paul Boudier and Albert Touton, two chef brothers who brushed up against the furious flames of Le Chateaubriand, Aux Deux Amis and Le Verre Volé, decided to set their dinner menu and all of Paris ablaze without incinerating anyone’s wallet in the process. From the embers was born a thunderous yet classy €50 prix-fixe menu: divine langoustine maki prepared with a karashi mayonnaise, vinegary rice with nori; scrambled eggs with a generous amount of truffle; sinfully good Parmesan agnolotti, christened with a ladleful of watercress velouté; masterfully prepared duck, paired with radicchio, dauphine potatoes and marchand de vin sauce… After a feast of such proportions, we let ourselves be wooed by some mango sorbet that was out of this world and topped with a dash of tandoori spices, and a precious little Paris-Brest creampuff that had us weak in the knees. At lunchtime, the tiny tavern sends out an insane €21 menu featuring homecooked cuisine that really hits the bull’s-eye – the last time it was leeks vinaigrette, veal blanquette and clafoutis for dessert. // Renaud Fuego

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a beautiful natural wine collection put together by the spirited Beatriz Errando (ex-Chateaubriand): a Catalan pet’ nat’ from Cellar 9+ (€8 a glass), a Riesling from Florian and Mathilde Beck-Hartweg (€9), an orange Clairette from the Domaine Ribiera in the Hérault department (€30 a bottle), a Roussillon Syrah from Les Foulards Rouges (€35)…
PRICE: Set menus €19-21 (weekday lunch), €50 (dinner).