Winner of Le Fooding’s best pizza-yolo of 2014 award, the Calabrian native Salvatore Rotiroti has been camped out in an increasingly timeworn space since 2012. But that doesn’t matter: we come here for the thinness and crispiness of his pizzas, made in front of us in a spectacle of flavor as the fiery chef juggles sunny ingredients from his beloved Italy. Just take the other day at lunch as an example, with a very appetizing Margherita pizza topped lightly with the holy trinity of tomato, fior di latte and basil, along with a voluptuous and meaty Ronzati pizza covered in fior di latte, Neapolitan sausage, cime di rapa and smoked scamorza. And to finish on a sweet note, there was silky panna cotta under an avalanche of generously caramelized almonds. // Renaud Fuego

FEELING THIRSTY? Wash your pizzas down with a glass of Lambrusco (€5.50), a Venetian rosé (€16.50 for a pitcher), a Tuscan Bellosguardo white (€26 a bottle) or a red from La Cantine Sanpietrana in Puglia (€30).
PRICE: Pizzas €9.99 to €18.