Seated on bistro chairs gazing into the sun-shaped mirrors, we dive into the blue of the Aegean Sea that has loaned its color to this Hellenic neo-taverna. Chef Mikaela Liaroutsos and her Homeric soul has patched together secrets gathered from Rostang and Lignac, whose establishments she navigated before moving to the Lamarck neighborhood to whip up well-made mezze plates. The night we went, we took a seat directly at the counter and ordered all of the following: smoking hot kolokithokeftedes, aka zucchini and herb beignets over an atmospheric bed of tzatziki; juicy grilled corn on the cob, served with mizithra (sheep’s milk cheese) and a Dionysian pistachio-tarragon pesto; comforting octopus with fava (split pea purée), pomegranate seeds and pistachios, Mikaela’s signature dish; before a return to Ithaca for the layered embrace of a walnut and clove baklava, paired with sheep’s milk yogurt and a citrus and orange blossom syrup. // Renaud Fuego

FEELING THIRSTY? Everything you need to study Greek vinosophy: a mineral white from the Tetramythos winery in Peloponnese (€8 a glass), a full-bodied red from Cephalonia by the Sclavos estate (€7), a oxidative white from Zante by Mercati (€52 a bottle)… And if you prefer mixology, there’s a cocktail combining tsípouro (grape brandy), bitters and lime (€10).
PRICE: Mezze €6-13, desserts €9, surprise tasting menu €35.