Etsi (Paris)

© Meloni di Giaime

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In her Hellenic neo-taverna (an Aegean blue façade, bistro chairs, a sun mirror), chef Mikaela Liaroutsos (who trained under Rostang and Lignac) is keeping the Lamarck neighborhood happy with some well-made mezze. The night we went, we took a seat on the big terrace and nibbled on some incredible eats: flash-seared feta with honey, roasted Padrón peppers and pine nuts; extremely comforting kolokythokeftede zucchini beignets with a yogurt dipping sauce; a classic homemade taramasalata; dakos (a dark Crete bread) dripping with olive oil and topped with a mountain of ultra-fresh cherry tomatoes; tender feta flaky pastries brushed with honey; before an incredible orange blossom Greek yogurt sprinkled with crumbled olive oil shortbread and cubed watermelon. // M.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic or natural Greek wines: a Tetramythos white from Peloponnese (€8 a glass), a Thymiopoulos red from the North (€28 a bottle), an Assyrtiko white from Santorin Athina (€60)…

PRICE: Mezze €6-14, desserts €9-10, tasting menu €35.

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