Restaurant Double (Paris)

© Mickaël A. Bandassak

  • Date
  • share

Restaurants count Double! There’s no two ways about it, David Israël (the co-founder of Dizen) and his accomplice Jonathan Gainville have placed their trust in a chef with a rock-solid resume to run the solid oak counters of their tiny hideaway. His name? Tsuyoshi Yamakawa, a Japanese chef with a love for cucina italiana, who used to work at Saturne, Le Verre Volé and La Crèmerie. The result? Dinner plates nibbled under the rust-toned lights, taking inspiration from all over the place: scallop tartare with smoked ricotta and shaved Chioggia beets; a comforting maritozzo (a plump brioche) filled with lemony ricotta and dotted with salmon roe; quail prepared two ways (roasted thigh and as a North African “brick” pastry), served with potato purée and a deeply reduced jus de viande; some divine tagliatelle fatte a mano, paired with pan-fried shiitakes and monkfish glazed in ponzu butter; and for the final act, a dorayaki, that famous double pancake stuffed with azuki bean paste, here served plain but topped with praline mascarpone, toasted hazelnuts and a coffee cookie. At lunchtime, the mood changes as the chef goes back to basics, serving onigiri-a-go-go: miso-glazed eggplant, ginger chicken, celery root and Kewpie mayonnaise… only available to go. // Alain Cop 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Around 20 living wines: Sauvage, a skin-contact gewürztraminer / pinot gris blend from Sons of Wine (€9 a glass), Môl, a red blend by Patrick Bouju (€50 a bottle), Gaia, a Campanian fiano from La Cantina Giardino (€90)… And if you want something to quench your thirst with your take-away lunch, there’s ginger beer or homemade lemonade (€2.50 each). 
PRICE: : Onigiri set menus €9-12 (lunch, to go), à la carte €35-65 (dinner). 

Save this spot in the Fooding app, available on iOS! Download it now in the app store.

The new Le Fooding France Guide is available!

Inside the latest edition, discover our top 400 restaurants, bars, wine cellars, shops and hotels from all over France that’ll be the talk of the town in 2024. Anything else? Our 16-strong list of award winners you’ll not find anywhere else, and nine articles which shine a light on the taste of the times!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… And after conquering France, Belgium is Le Fooding guide’s latest playground!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.