Chantoiseau (Paris)

© Chantoiseau

  • Date
  • share

Tatiana Levha’s (Le Servan) former sous-chef, Nicolas Durand, has migrated north to open up Chantoiseau, a cozy nest with Servan-esque accents (a pretty zinc bar, clean lines, molded glass chandeliers). Backed by his brother Julien (ex-Gagnaire), the chef works with high-quality ingredients in his brand new kitchen. Only six nights in and already putting in a fine performance: an elegant mish-mash of rope-grown mussels, cockles and amande clams in an incredible pine vinegar; fattened hen from the Perche region prepared as a blanquette, with enoki mushrooms, baby turnips and a creamy chicken jus (it was just lacking a little contrast, but they’re still figuring things out!), or perfectly cooked small-catch bass with green cabbage, seaweed and rice that was moistened by a spellbinding lemongrass fish fumet; before a somewhat bitter citrus tartlet sweetened by a graceful guava sorbet. The cherry on top? The kind service by Julia Soto, Julien’s partner. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? The drinks are guaranteed to keep you chirping with pleasure! A Burgundy Pinot noir from Fanny Sabre (€8 a glass), a Jura Chardonnay from the Maison Overnoy (€42 a bottle), a Loire Cabernet-Franc from François Saint-Lô (€45), not to mention other good natural wines: Athénaïs de Béru, Domaine des Accoles, Domaine de la Pinte…

PRICE: Set menus and menus €24-28 (weekday lunch), à la carte €44-66 (dinner).

Save this spot in the Fooding app, available on iOS! Download it now in the app store.

The Belgium Guide 2024 is out of the oven!

Discover the latest selection of the Kingdom’s 350 best addresses (restaurants, bars, cellars, shops and bedrooms), an award’s list celebrating this year’s favorite spots, and a magazine section featuring « Belgium Underground » exploring the margins of the food world, its hidden stories and some of its most taboo subjects.

2024 Le Fooding Belgium guide frontcover
I want it!

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… And after conquering France, Belgium is Le Fooding guide’s latest playground!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.