Tatiana Levha’s (Le Servan) former sous-chef, Nicolas Durand, has migrated north to open up Chantoiseau, a cozy nest with Servan-esque accents (a pretty zinc bar, clean lines, molded glass chandeliers). Backed by his brother Julien (ex-Gagnaire), the chef works with high-quality ingredients in his brand new kitchen. Only six nights in and already putting in a fine performance: an elegant mish-mash of rope-grown mussels, cockles and amande clams in an incredible pine vinegar; fattened hen from the Perche region prepared as a blanquette, with enoki mushrooms, baby turnips and a creamy chicken jus (it was just lacking a little contrast, but they’re still figuring things out!), or perfectly cooked small-catch bass with green cabbage, seaweed and rice that was moistened by a spellbinding lemongrass fish fumet; before a somewhat bitter citrus tartlet sweetened by a graceful guava sorbet. The cherry on top? The kind service by Julia Soto, Julien’s partner. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? The drinks are guaranteed to keep you chirping with pleasure! A Burgundy Pinot noir from Fanny Sabre (€8 a glass), a Jura Chardonnay from the Maison Overnoy (€42 a bottle), a Loire Cabernet-Franc from François Saint-Lô (€45), not to mention other good natural wines: Athénaïs de Béru, Domaine des Accoles, Domaine de la Pinte…

PRICE: Set menus and menus €24-28 (weekday lunch), à la carte €44-66 (dinner).