Located far above sea level, on the steep climb up to Montmartre, this small, elegant wood-clad space lights up a forgotten alley with its virtuous cuisine. Walls and partitions crafted with origami-like precision (folded by the Sala Hars and Vorbot architects) protect the long table and bar behind which master chef Shunei Kimura (ex-Izumi) creates his masterpieces. Here, the omakase menu presents each beast with wild abandon, making them levitate on perfectly cooked rice. In other words, fourteen incredible nigiri served on black lacquered wood: turbot with rich umami notes; bass in a tempest of flavor; sensual pink sea bream; dangerously good amberjack; salmon with mighty omegas; cosmic cuttlefish; thunderous bluefin tuna served plain and marinated in sake and soy sauce; a duo of aristo-fatty toro; mackerel as an ode to the brininess of the sea; a prince charming of a chinchard mackerel; artfully prepared sardine; a torpedo of lacquered eel. Once we’d savored all the sushi, it was time for a miso soup made with shrimp heads and shells, to help the big tuna tartare and chive maki slide down. And to end the meal on a sweet note? Alain Ducasse, who is a loyal customer here, dreamt up a roasted tea ice cream, with a hazelnut and salted plum paste. //

FEELING THIRSTY? A delicate Gyokuro tea (€10), Gikyo ginjo junmai sake (€34 for 180 ml), fruity junmai (€12 for 90 ml), a spirited Riesling from the Domaine Kientzler (€76)…
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €100-120 (€14-16 each); food and tea pairings (€35), food and sake pairings €50, a mix of tea, wine and sake pairings €45.