Among the imposing glass-fronted buildings surrounding Brussels-Midi station, Asturias has proudly been holding its ground with pride for the past 50 years. Much like its Spanish-speaking regulars with their unmistakably Brussels accents, it feels as if nothing has changed since the day it opened. Beyond the food, Asturias is above all a family affair, cheerfully recounted to anyone who’ll listen by its warm and welcoming owner, Juan Perez Gonzalez. From the age of two, he grew up in the restaurant which was founded by his mother, Aurora, who arrived in Brussels from Galicia as a teenager. As ever, you’ll still find her in the kitchen, stirring up a melting pot of her own roots and those of her late husband, a native of Asturias. Take the legendary paella for two, available by reservation in advance. But the night we went, we chose to squeeze in at the bar and graze on a spread of tasty tapas bites: pimientos de Padrón; grilled baby squid; Galician-style octopus… which instantly transported us to the Cantabrian coast. A true Asturian delight! · Emile Marnac

FEELING THIRSTY? Cortina natural cider from Asturias (€7 for 700 ml), tangy like a gueuze, served culín-style – just two fingers of perfectly frothy nectar, poured from an electric pourer and best enjoyed in one refreshing gulp. Otherwise, you’ll find Spanish wines and a non-alcoholic Jupiler (€2.50 for a half-pint).

PRICE: Tapas €5.50 to €20, mains €18.50 to €30.50, desserts €7.50.