Behind the Royal Flemish Theater, you’ll find this bright, chic eatery with a counter displaying the catch of the day, a bar and an open kitchen where the culinary performance plays out – the opening act being a large salmon prepared as a gravlax! On the set lunch menu, said salmon is served with a mustard vinaigrette and a split pea and dill cream, one of many dishes to lap up in delight. The poached skate wing with parsnip, green lentils and smoked mousseline sauce is so filling that it’s best to slowly sip your drink and buy some time before tackling the captivating smoked chocolate ganache with shortbread, caramel and sea buckthorn ice cream. Meanwhile, the evening menu makes for a romantic affair: Ostréa Régal oysters from Brittany; shrimp croquettes; marinated salmon with porcini mushroom powder, black garlic cream, peanuts and panisses; soft-shell crab with soy caramel and honey; and eel in green herb sauce. What else? Ultra-professional service that never feels overly stiff. // Idoine Gérard

FEELING THIRSTY? A lively Saint-Chinian from the Domaine Marie de Lauzerda (€7.80 a glass), Les Jacquaires a biodynamic Languedoc white from the Château La Colombière (€43 a bottle), old-school Moriau gueuze (€12 for 375 ml) or homemade kombucha (€6).

PRICE: Set menu €34 (lunch), à la carte €63-77.