Bistro “S”: is that “s” as in… “stylish”? Antonio Arnes Spinoza, a numismatist specializing in Ancient Greece, takes the utmost care at this little gem of a restaurant that combines light wood, camel-toned moleskin leather and industrial light fixtures. Meanwhile, Japanese chef Shimpei Oie (ex-Bistro Volnay) perfects retro-modernist bistro classics. The day we went for lunch, we had all of the following: poached octopus paired with a lively mix of cherries, radishes and red cabbage, all tantalizingly seasoned with shiso and orach leaves and artistically plated; followed by a succulent skirt steak with a delicious sauce, surrounded by somewhat chalky potatoes, spinach and mushrooms. Craving something sweet? The day we went, there was a paris-brest pastry or strawberry sorbet served with seasonal fruit. At night, Shimpei whips out the big guns and serves a five-course tasting menu, with amuse-bouches, an appetizer, a fish of the day, a roasted meat course and dessert. // Ana Kirpad.

FEELING THIRSTY? : “S” as in “sans sulfites”? There’s a Drôme grenache-syrah blend from Philippe Rivet (€6 a glass), a Chablis from Samuel Billaud (€59 a bottle), Alanda, a Galicia red produced by José Luis Mateo (€69)…
PRICE: Set menus €27-37 (lunch) and €58 (5 courses, dinner).