This place is oozing with old-fashioned charm! Édouart Vermynck (ex-Entrée des Artistes) has preserved a delightful sense of nostalgia at this retro bistro sandwiched between Places des Vosges and Place de la Bastille, where certain elements of the decor are celebrating their hundred-year anniversary, including the French marble bar, cement tile floors and the cash register from another era…. You might run into the American comedian Eric André arm in arm with the boss of Yard, Clos Ochin, but even better yet are the fantastically traditional plates by Geoffroy Lalangella, the son of Neapolitan butchers who trained at the École Ferrandi. All of the following graced our table, this time around: an eggplant millefeuille sprinkled with basil and served cold (incredible!); an unpretentious sirloin steak with thin fries, tartare sauce and as much jus de viande as you want, into which you can dip your bread from the nearby bakery Brigat’; and to end the meal on a sweet note, Madagascan vanilla crème brûlée, which was as sweet and perfumed as a kiss on the cheek from grandma. // Albert Gredinbar
FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of beautiful natural wines with a focus on the Beaujolais region (where the owner’s parents hail from) and the surrounding area: a Chablis from the Domaine de l’Enclos (€8 a glass), a Morgon from Foillard (€48 a bottle), a Gamay from Laurence and Rémi Dufaitre (€28)…
PRICE: À la carte €37-58.
