When you’re in a bistronomic slump, let Paris wrap you up in its brasseries! Or more specifically, this flashy brasserie which Adrien Spanu (ex-Passerini) opened in what used to be Le Petit Boffinger, that’s decked out with disco ball pillars, mosaic tile floors and mirrors everywhere you look. That same old-fashioned charm is readily apparent on the menu, featuring dishes you might find on the Sunday table of a bourgeois family – only better. The day we went for lunch, we wolfed down a silky lobster bisque with a cloud of aioli and croutons, before digging into a turbot steak glistening with a beurre meunière sauce, plus roasted potatoes and spinach. And to go with our espresso, as we watched a satisfied customer finish up his nap on the banquette across from our table? A lovely vanilla crème brûlée. You’ll also find classic, comforting dishes like liver terrine, green bean salad, roasted veal kidneys with gratin dauphinois potatoes, or floating islands for dessert. In short, a place where the pleasure of rediscovery is more potent than the thrill of discovery! // Sofia Ortolan
FEELING THIRSTY? A judicious selection of AOC wines: a Pouilly-Fumé from the Domaine Cailbourdin (€8 a glass), Champagne produced by the Gerbais family (€13 a glass), a Sancerre red from the Domaine Vacheron (€45 a bottle).
PRICE: Set menu €25 (lunch), à la carte €37-69.