Who’s behind this bistro for modern times (cream walls, bistro chairs, round ceiling lamps)? The young and talented Baptiste Day (who is actually the grandson of a sea captain, and who worked at Astrance and Arpège before becoming Tatiana Levha’s sous-chef at Le Servan). On the Saturday lunch set menu: flash-seared cuttlefish over a green curry emulsion and a few zucchini ribbons; a beautiful, perfectly cooked veal steak seasoned with ’nduja, carrots and corn; before an explosive coconut and mango rice pudding intensified by piment d’Espelette! At night, the blind menu surfs on the chef’s inspiration of the moment, or you can opt for the à la carte options: pork croquettes; octopus and beetroot with an XO sauce; brioche-style foie gras dumplings in a sunchoke broth; pullet from La Cour d’Armoise with cauliflower, lemon and olives… // A.Be.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s an organic-centric wine list: Les Indiennes, a supple Cévennes red from Le Mas Foulaquier (€7 a glass); a Mâcon white from the Domaine de la Soeur Cadette (€7); a Loire Chenin from the Domaine de la Table Rouge (€36 a bottle); a Maurice Fleurie from the Domaine Marc Delienne (€40).

PRICE: Set menu €29 (weekday lunch), menu €60 (dinner), à la carte €38-64.