A stone’s throw from Bastille, the imposing chef Christophe Philippe welcomes meat lovers to his bistro that’s been reduced to the bare minimum in terms of decor: faux leather benches, white walls, naturalist wine posters and that’s all folks! At lunch, the “worker’s menu” got the job done right for €29: plump monkfish blinis; a hearty portion of Aldudes pork shoulder slow-roasted and then sautéed in butter, with seasonal veggies and polenta; an unusual and none-too-sweet dessert that was a cross between cake and French toast with almonds, plus a scoop of homemade and divinely good vanilla ice cream. Served à la carte, you can also indulge in veal tongue served in paper-thin slices with mayo and mixed greens, before digging into roasted veal sweetbreads with mashed potatoes. Pescatarians can opt for the small-catch sole roasted in butter, or the poached monkfish fillet with whipped butter fumet and panisse fries. // Daphné Miller

FEELING THIRSTY? Over 90 natural French wines to choose from: a grenache from Le Mas Foulaquier (€8 a glass), Montanet Toden, a Vézelay from the Domaine La Soeur Cadette (same price), Maximus, a Fer Servadou from Nicolas Carmarans (€42 a bottle)…

PRICE: Set menus €29 (lunch), à la carte €47-75 (lunch and dinner).