Kintoa pork terrine, tripe, veal sweetbreads… In this bistro that’s been reduced to the bare minimum in terms of decor (faux leather benches, wooden tables and that’s all folks!), chef Christophe Philippe delights meat lovers who aren’t afraid to dig into a good ol’ chunk of meat . The day we went for lunch it was the middle of the summer heatwave, so his prix-fixe lunch menu was a little lighter than usual: fresh green tomatoes paired with a delicious eggplant caviar; a tasty line-caught hake fillet with incredible panisse fries; before a chilled 100% cocoa lava cake – or lemon crème brûlée. And for all the meat-o-philes out there, the chef’s standard fare is still served à la carte at night: veal cheeks with carrots; veal sweetbreads cooked whole and served with mashed potatoes; guinea fowl from Dordogne with peas, etc. // J.P.
FEELING THIRSTY? Unearth a few natural bottles from the well-stocked wine selection: a Muscadet from Jo Landron or a Burgundy Pinot noir from the Domaine Bonnardot (€7 a glass for each), a Languedoc Cinsault from La Sorga (€28) or a Jura Chardonnay from the Tissots (€55).
PRICE: Set menus €19-22 (lunch), à la carte €45-55 (dinner).
