Initially named Le P’tit Chicago in reference to the Toulon neighborhood where organized crime flourished after the Second World War, this dashing cave à manger (a bright yellow credenza, stone walls, a terrace lulled by the lapping fountain) is now called Borsavino! Its godfathers, Flor and Jérôme Beffy (ex-Renaissance in Paris) sent out an explosive round of well-made sharing plates the night we went: haricots verts, coco de Paimpol beans and zucchini rounds drizzled in a delicious hazelnut pesto, all topped with delicate eggplant caviar; refreshing chilled tomato soup with quartered figs, fresh goat cheese and Solliès apricot slices; perfect meagre gravlax with a raw chive cream for dipping; perfectly cooked beef tongue topped with an intensely flavorful tartar sauce; before a rich Guanaja chocolate ganache. // Gwen Jacquère 

FEELING THIRSTY? The lovebirds unveil their best natural bottles: a dozen wines served by the glass at affordable prices (Exilé, a Loire Chenin from the Joussets at €6 a glass, for example), Hanami, a highly-drinkable red from Bobinet in Saumur (€28 a bottle), an Arbois white from the Domaine de la Pinte (€50)… 
PRICE: Menu €15 (lunch), plates €8-13 (dinner).