Boubalé

He’s unstoppable! Assaf Granit opens up Parisian restaurants like tearing into challah on the Sabbath: after the joyful Balagan, the intimate counter-spot Shabour, the vegetarian restaurant Tekés and the Shosh épicerie, the Israeli TV personality and chef decided to revisit Ashkenazi cuisine via a deep dive into his Polish grandmother’s recipe collection, whom he affectionately refers to as boubalé – “my dear grandma” in Yiddish. And it’s in the extremely elegant Grand Mazarin hotel that you’ll find his latest datcha, complete with waiters dressed in traditional outfits, round tables lit by candlelight and plush little armchairs, all of which contributes to the impression of intimacy despite the ambient hubbub, amplified by frequent cries of “Yes chef!” coming from the open kitchen. From which a series of small wild beauties emerge: delightful salmon gravlax marinated in arak and beetroot juice, dressed in mayonnaise and fried capers; excellent chicken liver served like a scoop of ice cream, sprinkled with cured egg yolk and served with buttered toast cut into soldiers for dipping, mustard and cornichons; (very) spicy pepper and chili casserole with harissa and slow-roasted garlic; a prodigious yellowtail tartare with marinated yellow dates (a nod to Rosh Hashanah) dressed in cream and dill; superb Uzbek mantu prepared like Abigail (the executive chef Itamar Gargi’s grandmother) used to, aka lamb dumplings in a creamy sauce; and to finish, a traditional strudel served with yogurt cream, to die for, or a no-less-impressive fennel ice cream and crumble combo, with a plum, apple and pear compote to pour on top. // Albert Gredinbar

FEELING THIRSTY? : Wines that are east-facing of course, chosen by sommelier Timothée Delignat (who used to work at Balagan): Istrie by Korenika & Moskon (€9 a glass), a Neguev chardonnay from Domaine Pinto (€84 a bottle), a Syrian red from the Château Bargylus (€127)… Along with a dozen signature cocktails that you can sip at the bar, like the Sababousch which combines boukha (fig brandy), eggplant and oregano (€18).
PRICE: : À la carte €50-81.