One seriously fresh bistro! Frédérique Garel has packed up her billigs and bobs, leaving Rennes to take over the legendary village bar-grocers-tobacco shop ran by Serge and Babeth Bertro, on a still relatively undiscovered stretch of coastline. Backed by Léa Guillot (ex-Origines) and Morgane Denais, and embraced by the locals, the new owner has given the place a thoughtful refresh: the dining room under the panoramic veranda has been revived, the vast terrace is back in play and palets bretons have made their return. On the shelves, local organic produce sits alongside everyday staples – cigarettes, Panzani pasta, Orangina – for a shopping basket melting pot firmly rooted in reality. And to nibble on? A lunch menu that offers plenty of bang for your buck, from kig ha farz (a traditional Breton stew) on Mondays – or moules-frites in the summer – to galettes on Fridays, plus small plates on Friday and Saturday evenings, all best enjoyed with a drink sourced from nearby producers. · Roland Tarte

Ate: Scallop tarama with kombu seaweed marmalade and coastal herbes foraged by the chefs; rice soup topped with a fried egg, roasted vegetables, za’atar butter and smoked paprika oil; and preserved limequat cheesecake.

Price: Set menus and à la carte €16-21 (weekday lunch), small plates €4.50-9 (Friday and Saturday evenings).