We thought Chris Wright had vanished for good. After handing over the reins of the near-legendary Épicerie de Dienne (Fooding Guide France Best Village Bistro 2017), the taciturn, industrious Mancunian seemed to disappear into the Auvergne mist. Thankfully, he’s resurfaced in the next valley over, quietly under the radar and far removed from the connected fray, at the foot of the ski slopes and hiking trails of the tiny, family-friendly Le Lioran resort. Inside this austere eatery (old-school tiles, wood paneled walls), Ernest the sheepdog keeping watch, comfort lies squarely on the plate: the very best of hearty Auvergne inn fare, built around the choicest local produce and served with generous abandon. As for the wines, expect a short but sentimental selection of natural gems from the surrounding departments, including a few treasures carried over from Dienne. It’s all tout schuss from here! · Roland Tarte

Ate: The chef’s signature glossy blood sausage tart, this time paired with sage; rustic beef cheek braised in red wine over barley and slow-cooked carrots; and pear roasted in butter and honey.

Price: Starters €8-12, mains €16-23, desserts €7.