The snake has shed its skin. Cobra, one of Antwerp’s great gastronomic institutions, returns in the Markgrave district in a bigger, brighter 2.0 incarnation, complete with an open kitchen and a secluded garden. Behind the project is Esfan Eghtessadi (the entrepreneur behind fashion brand Essentiel Antwerp), whose team has taken a winning formula and supersized it. The result? Tables booked solid weeks in advance. On the plate, Orlando Schuitema delivers polished, occasionally show-stopping brasserie fare: brioche toast with smoked butter and caviar; Iberian ham croquettes with Belgian pickles; grilled langoustines with beurre blanc and lime; and flame-grilled ribeye from De Laet & Van Haver, not forgetting the faultless homemade fries, all while taking in the parade of Antwerp’s who’s who. · Mireille Flocon

Feeling thirsty? The drinks list gives equal billing to highly drinkable house cocktails and mocktails (Spicy Margarita, €17), bubbles – with three champagnes by the glass, including Billecart Salmon Brut Réserve (€19), plus a thoughtful selection of sake (junmai daiginjo Kotobuki, €21 a glass) and teas (€5-6).

Price: Small plates €8-40, starters €15-16, mains €20-75, sides €7-15, desserts €15-20.