Couvert Couvert

All you need is a knife and a fork, the Folmers will take care of the rest! After 20 years in Leuven, Lorraine-natives Laurent and Vincent got lucky as they learned their new trade, first as pastry chefs at L’Espérance (Yonne) and Oberweis (Luxembourg), before opening this fat-free spot with clean-cut lines (red brick walls, white tablecloths, dark parquet floors). And they play the same card when it comes to the dishes, which were just as luxurious, calm and refined that evening: ethereal scallop ceviche barely dressed with radish, citrus fruits and Pu’er fermented tea; a trio of oysters awakened with cucumber and horseradish; cauliflower doused in a green sauce and studded with gray shrimp and buckwheat; before a beautiful piece of Malines chicken served with artichokes, olives and black truffle. The only shadow cast over this Malevitchian painting? The prices, which quickly hold a knife to the throat of your purse strings. // Maria Pepper

FEELING THIRSTY? A menu of organic and natural bottles: Goutte d’O, a Belgian Chardonnay with a floral bouquet from Château Bousval (€75 a bottle), or Munjebel, an Etna Rosso summer berry bomb from Frank Cornelissen (€115). And you’ll easily find happiness amongst the large choice of locally-brewed gueuze beers.
PRICE: Menus €55-77 (lunch) and €90 (except Friday and Saturday evening), €115 and €140 (€120, €155 and €190 with food and wine pairings), à la carte €45-60, cheeses and desserts €20.