Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? Whatever it is, it’s undeniably gorgeous – happily straddling two worlds, especially given that the design comes courtesy of the cream of Marseille’s design scene. Housed in what was once Sarment, chef Ferdinand Fravega’s (ex-Figure, Ippon) new culinary lair wears all the signatures beloved by aesthete duo Axel and Mélissa Chay (resin floors, heavy satin curtains, swirling elm burl veneer, glossy chrome galore), setting the stage for neo-Provençal cooking served in an almost Lynchian glow. On the night we visited, torn between the expansive bar (ideal for conspiratorial whispers) and the table nearest the hulking speakers, we tucked into a lineup that didn’t miss a beat: a cheeky toast topped with grated bottarga, hiding a herb-laced beurre monté; bluefin tuna killed using the ikejime method, gloriously scarlet and tangled with beetroot rounds, clementine and a shellfish jus; indecent porchetta from Mount Lagast, sprawled over caponata and broccolini; and Ardèche trout cosseted in a gamey jus with pak choi and a righteous dollop of aioli. We could have stopped there, but for next to nothing (four euros, a steal!), who’s saying no to a homemade olive-oil ice cream sundae? · Artie Show

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list that speaks fluently to natural-wine lovers of all stripes: L’Original, a Roussillon white blend by Caroline and Marc Biarrot (€6 a glass), Méridionale from Domaine Berry-Althoff in the Gard (€35 a bottle) or Rot Murlé, a riesling by Pierre Frick (€66). There’s also Zéma kombucha (€5 for 200 ml) and Antidote non-alcoholic sparkling wine from Domaine des Grottes (€6 a glass).

PRICE: Snacks €3-10, appetizers €7-10, mains €22-25, desserts €4-9.