Ekume

In the bustling Saint-Victor neighborhood, there’s a little oasis of calm run by the Panamanian chef Edgar Bosquez (who sharpened his knives and skills under Bocuse, Senderens and Passedat) and his wife Alizée, who welcome in curious diners with a gust of the fresh sea air. In their lovely spot with terrazzo tile floors, light wooden details, a bar and a long leather banquette, the neo-Marseillais performs a recital of Provencal flavors irrigated by Mediterranean wines. On the four-course dinner menu: a delicate honey tartlet paired with marinated bonito tartare, crowned with a deliriously good Choron sauce prepared as a sabayon and drizzled in a prawn reduction; fiery cauliflower oven-roasted to golden perfection and paired with a watercress oil thickened with white chocolate and dotted with oysters; pearly sea bream in sauce ravigote with crisp sunchokes; and for a supernatural pairing, a brilliant chocolate cream in between layers of sponge cake, with a luminous sorrel sorbet center for the finale. // Ninsu 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Rather young wines: Les Béates, an Aix-en-Provence red (€9 a glass), a Cassis white from the Domaine du Bagnol (€46 a bottle), L’Agachon, a Provence carignan-cinsault blend from Le Clos de l’Ours (€52) or Jardin Suspendu, a condrieu from Pierre Jean Villa (€105).
PRICE: : Set menus €35-75 (lunch) and €55-75 (dinner), bouillabaisse menu €89 (make sure to order it 48 hours in advance) and “table du chef” menu for two at €150.