When Noailles starts speaking Spanish, you get El Barrio Marsella, the new HQ for Latino food in the heart of the neighborhood. At his vibrant, hybrid shop that feels like a neighborhood café/grocery store (bright yellow metal patio furniture, all the essentials on the shelves inside, like coffee, chilies and corn flour), Colombian chef Juan David Pulgarin (ex-Le Relais Louis XIII and La Boissonnerie in Paris and Le Bar des Amis) sends out classic South American street food at affordable prices. The day we went for lunch, that included some perfect Argentine empanadas oozing with mozzarella and slow-cooked onions; authentic tacos served in pairs, available as vegetarian versions (grilled oyster mushrooms) or with meat (shredded chicken and tomatoes), both served with cilantro and chimichurri; cheeky ceviche prepared with the fish of the moment (mullet the day we went) made the traditional way, with a hearty dose of cancha, the toasted corn kernels typical of Andean cuisine. Also available à la carte: pandebonos (small Colombian cheese and egg bread made with cassava flour) and arepas (corn cakes) stuffed with cheese, roasted mushrooms and hogao, available all day long and perfect for pairing with a coffee. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, grab some banana bread and alfajores shortbread with dulce de leche. It’s fuego! // Maud Zarella

FEELING THIRSTY? : Carefully-sourced Colombian coffee that’s roasted in house (€1.80 for an espresso) or house drinks that you won’t find just anywhere: lovely homemade chicha morada made with purple corn and pineapple (€2.50 a glass) and sweet panela made with unrefined cane sugar (same price). Otherwise, there are wines served by the glass in every color (€4).
PRICE: : À la carte €2-12 (savory) and €3.50 to €4.50 (sweet).