1. Restaurants
  2. Région Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
  3. Département des Bouches-du-Rhône (13)
  4. City of Marseille
  5. Marseille (13001)

La Mercerie

Restaurant La Mercerie in MarseilleLa Mercerie (Marseille) - © Laura Vidal

Best sophistroquet of 2019

Following in the footsteps of Julia Sammut and her incredible restaurant/épicerie (L’Idéal), the itinerant trio behind The Paris Popup has also decided to settle down on their quest for all things good in Marseille’s Noailles neighborhood. Housed in an old haberdashery that’s been given the bistro treatment (hanging lightbulbs, woven chairs), Laura Vidal and her accomplice Julia Mitton keep things running out front while, behind his long wooden bar, chef Harry Cummins (ex-Frenchie) audaciously stitches together sensational menus. On the €39 four-course version the day we went: a diabolical amuse-bouche of new potatoes with homemade taramasalata; lively mackerel sweetened with kiwi and broccolini; flavorful mussels in broth draped with Bigorre ham and XO sauce; duck breast nestled into a bed of roasted freekeh (a crushed Lebanese grain) with an orange reduction; before buttermilk ice cream with meringue – a little less impressive than the savory dishes. This sexy nocturnal show is worth celebrating with lovingly chosen bottles from the Quebecois sommelier Caroline Loiseleux (ex-Frenche): a sublime walnut liqueur from the Pays d’Oc produced by Laurent Cazottes (€8 for 60 ml), a Cheverny from the Domaine du Veilloux (€4.50 a glass) or a headspinningly good Languedoc, “Siffle-moi,” from Vin des Potes (€27 a bottle). Lunch: set menus €21 and €26. Dinner menu €39. // Niels Kammermann

Getting there

Restaurant La Mercerie
9, cours Saint-Louis
TEL: +33 4 91 06 18 44
Subway: Noailles