Best sophistroquet of 2019
After having shaken up taste buds around the world (Japan, Canada, Vietnam, USA, Morocco…), the Canadian-British trio behind Paris Popup finally settled down in Marseille in 2018! In this former mercerie (or haberdashery) in the working-class Noailles neighborhood (unfinished walls, a chestnut wood bar, vintage white lattice chairs), entrepreneur Julia Mitton, sommelier Laura Vidal and chef Harry Cummins (ex-Frenchie in Paris) are backed up by an army of striped aprons who all help bring your plates to life. The day we went, the sensational menu for 29 bucks featured: thunderous spring onions with eel-infused milk; incredible gnocchi tucked alongside a rabbit ragù with fresh peas; before a seductive rice pudding infused with fig leaves, served with strawberries and topped with an incredible fromage blanc ice cream. At night, the chef takes you on a surprise journey over five courses, featuring for example: tourteau crab with fennel, a parsley jus and Buddha’s hand zest; spaghetti squash, bottarga butter and egg yolk; duck breast with celeriac, autumn truffle and milkcap mushrooms; slow-roasted squash with a tamarind sorbet… // A.H.
FEELING THIRSTY? Concocted by Laura Vidal, the wine list brings together all kinds of gems: a sparkling Aude wine from Etienne Fort (€7 a glass), a sweet Kéké Beaujolais from Descombes (€5), an Adrèche white from Thierry Alexandre (€38 a bottle), a Nero-di-Troja red Calcarius Valentina Passalacqua, from Puglia (€44).
PRICE: Menus €25-29 (lunch) and €48 (dinner).