Biggest Crush of 2017
In the heart of the working-class Noailles neighborhood, you’ll find deep blue tones on white tiles, two pine trees wrapped around each other and a list of promises (cheeses, oils, vinegars, condiments, wines, candies, quick lunches, prepared foods sold to go) inviting well-informed epicureans to venture inside L’Epicerie L’Idéal. That’s where Julia Sammut serves southern cuisine that you can savor around the table d’hôte or on the terrace every day at lunch, in addition to her little treasures (Kalio green mint, tinned Nardín bonito, oil from Le Priorat). From the eight dishes served à la carte, we chose: incredibly tender lamb shoulder slow-cooked in pomegranate molasses, with fregola salad, sautéed zucchini and lemon confit (€16); before a delightful almond-orange blossom ice cream stick from Emki Pop in Marseille (€3.90). Some other incredible options: a really good ricotta, cream of olive and grilled zucchini sandwich with socca chips (€10), or pasta fredda with eggplant, smoked mozzarella and basil (€14). And to wash it all down, there’s a selection of hand-picked natural wines: La Bégou, a sublime white from Magnon (€7.90 a glass), a Grenache from Peter Fischer (€26 a bottle), etc. But there’s also craft beer (Succube from La Goutte d’Or for €5 a bottle), a vintage pastis from Guillaume Ferroni (€4) or some very fresh homemade juice (chai, lemon juice, sparkling water, €3.50). Sandwiches €10, dishes €12-16, desserts €4 to €5.80. // G.LeP.