Épicerie L’Idéal

Epicerie L’Idéal (Marseille)

© J. Oppenheim

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Spearheading the new wave of eateries transforming the Noailles neighborhood into the “belly of Marseille” (also the kingdom of La Mercerie, Yima, etc.), sorceress Julia Sammut continues supplying her treasure chest of a restaurant with a thousand and one treats: smoked Norwegian anchovies, Marou chocolate, feta from Lemnos, Bordier butter, veal pastrami from Michel Kalifa… Plus, her incredible pantry makes its way onto beautiful plates at lunch time, stitched together depending on what inspires the chef that day, to be enjoyed under the wicker suspension lamps or on the terrace. The day we went for lunch: a hearty salt cod brandade from Le Grand Saint-Antoine; a cool, deconstructed baba ganoush; a bright pan bagnat sandwich with tuna, capers, mayo, crumbled egg and fennel, served with socca chips; before a delicious Geronimi fior di latte ice cream or an authentic cherry financier. And on Fridays, they stay open until 9pm for aperitivo! // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Fresh basil and strawberry juice (€4), pastis from Guillaume Ferroni prepared as a mauresque (with orgeat syrup, €4.50), and a few naturalist wines: a Sicilian white blend from Aldo Viola (€6.90 a glass), a Pic-Saint-Loup from Christophe Peyrus (€29 a bottle)…

PRICE: Plates €8-18, sandwiches of the day €7.50, desserts €5-7.

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