Looking for Hanada? If you’ve hit the Seine, you’ve gone too far! You’d be forgiven for walking straight past this discreet address from Masayoshi Hanada (ex-Sushi B), who keeps an intentionally low profile behind a black-lacquered storefront facing the river. Inside lies a sanctuary: a windowless room where stark white light cuts through enveloping darkness, inviting meditation and total disconnection – no photos or videos allowed! Ebony walls, ceramic sculptures and, center stage, a hinoki-wood counter set the scene for just ten lucky diners, seated face-to-face with the chef and his precise, expressive gestures. That evening’s omakase menu unfolded with quiet intensity: a simply poached turnip, meltingly tender, to open; deep-fried sesame tofu lavishly crowned with Oscietra caviar; understated sea bream sashimi with irisake (ume plum jelly), snow peas and ponzu; a flawless chawanmushi (Japanese savory custard) topped with egg yolk sabayon, crisp edamame and seaweed; and delicate skate cheek and shiitake mushrooms drifting in a pitch-perfect dashi… Followed by the long-awaited sushi procession, executed in a mesmerizing choreography: squid, sea bream, langoustine, white trout, crab, caviar, tuna belly, fatty tuna, akami bluefin tuna, amberjack, trout and mackerel, served in two acts and punctuated by a traditional fish fumet interlude. The denouement? Red miso soup, tuna futomaki with a divine omelet, and a gentle glide toward the finale: a heavenly rice, salt and olive oil sorbet, followed by fig with black sesame tofu cream and lemon jelly. Curtain! · Yanath Kandal

FEELING THIRSTY? Barnabé Nuytten’s wine selection impresses at every level: Blanc de Blancs, a brut nature champagne from Lassaigne (€275 a bottle), Équilibre, a savennières by Loïc Mahé (€145) or Montée de Tonnerre, a chablis from Domaine Raveneau (€980). As well as sophisticated sakes (Nichi Nichi Yamadanishiki, €32 a glass; Niida Honke, €23), herbal teas (sobacha, €14) and a sparkling koji drink infused with lemon thyme and ume su (€14).

PRICE: Tasting menu €350.