Jeanjean

Good things are happening over in Saint-Ouen! Before spreading the bistro gospel on the other side of Paris’s beltway, Jean His built himself a golden CV by accumulating experience under Etchebest in Saint-Émilion, Robuchon in Bordeaux and Stroobant in Singapore. After one final stint in the Marais at Terra, the young chef migrated north in order to shine all on his own at Jeanjean, a beautiful neo-bistro (a luminous facade, geometric tiling, painted bricks, an open kitchen). Served à la carte, the day we went: a stunning hand-cut veal tartare topped with anchovies and capers lightly massaged in brown butter; a spellbinding Robuchon-esque potato purée playing a supporting role to the flavor-packed roasted guinea fowl from his parent’s farm in Normandy, drizzled in a reduction that had us weak in the knees; before a lemon tart worthy of the yellow jersey, under the sharp incline of a mountain of Italian meringue. At night, come for tapas and the wine bar ambiance, nibbling on homemade chicken liver terrine, croque monsieurs made with Prince de Paris ham, Comté and truffles, or homemade taramasalata. // Renaud Fuego 

FEELING THIRSTY? You’ll only find good wines at Jeanjean: L’Impatiente, a Vézelay from the Domaine La Croix Montjoie (€9 a glass), La Louveterie, a Muscadet produced by Jo Landron (€29 a bottle), a Crozes-Hermitage from the Domaine Combier (€52)…
PRICE: À la carte €32-39 (lunch), small plates €8-11 (dinner).