The party is just getting started in the Finistère department! That’s all thanks to Guillaume Rouxel, who, after parading his apron around the four corners of the globe and at a few Parisian heavy-hitters (Le Chateaubriand, Le Dauphin, etc.), returned to his hometown in need of a fiery chef to take over this restaurant/bar whose previous owner recently retired. Two or three little fix-ups later (emerald green walls, wooden furniture, bouquets of wild flowers), the local kid brings joy to Breton appetites and hungry passersby, including us the other day at lunch: a bisque-like velvet crab bouillon, in which were floating some al dente ravioli royally filled with foie gras and lobster; followed by a generous serving of skate à la grenobloise with capers and buttery croutons, plus broccoli purée and roasted bok choy; and roasted apricots fresh out the oven with pistachio ice cream and an incredible olive financier. // Henriette Ma
FEELING THIRSTY? : An impeccable selection of wines: a Loire sauvignon from the Domaine de La Cotelleraie (€4 a glass), Issanka, a sparkling Languedoc rosé from Le Chai Uva (€29 a bottle), an Ardèche grenache noir from Hélène and Christophe Comte (€28)… And plenty of other goodies to sip on at the pool-table-green bar: Breton kir (€3.30), cocktails (Negroni, €9) and loads of digestifs (including a Fontedicto verveine liqueur, €4.80).
PRICE: : À la carte €35-45, kids’ menu €9.50.
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