Same formula, only better! After Nanashi, Le Petit Keller and Giclette, Kaori Endo is once again flying the Japanese flag high with Kokomi, her new bonsai-sized canteen. Tucked away on Rue Bachaumont, this tiny takeaway with all the proportions of a doll’s house is run single-handedly, much to the delight of Paris’s Japanese community and bento devotees. There’s no overcooked concept or cookie-cutter clichés here, just a tiny counter laden with veggie or tuna-mayo futomaki, onigiri and other organic, seasonal bites, alongside a delightfully eclectic array of house-made and carefully sourced drinks, from ginger ale and matcha azuki lattes to shōchū sours and a chenin from Domaine aux Moines. There are just four tables and a small terrace for those hoping to linger, though with seats at such a premium, the Palais-Royal gardens (a mere ten-minute walk away) make an excellent back-up plan. · Sugar Kane

Ate: Feather-light vegetable tempura; chirashi served over semi-brown rice and topped with salmon, jack mackerel, prawn, Japanese omelet, cucumber, radish, samphire, marinated shitake, pickled carrot and ginger; and a show-stealing kakigori shaved ice drenched in homemade matcha syrup and pleasantly jammy azuki beans.

Price: Bento and chirashi €16-20 (+ €3 as a set menu with dessert or miso soup), onigiri €3.50, desserts €5, kakigori €10 (€8 to go).