Frenchie bar à vins
In his wine bar decked out with stones, wooden rafters and bricks, Greg Marchand creates free-spirited tapas that are sharp extensions of the mother house’s good vibes. At high tide, we attack the incredible Banka trout rillettes, plus a delicate tuna tataki over smoked yogurt, tomatoes and basil. It all goes nicely with some admirable extra dry bubbly from Jean-Marc Sélègue (€14 a glass). Followed by small plates with earthier flavors: an intense lamb merguez over a bed of roasted peppers, tapenade and a log of fresh goat cheese; glorious pappardelle with lamb ragout, Kalamata olives and lemon confit; superb green tortellini with parsley, haricots verts, served in a stunning mushroom broth. Wash it all down with a formidable red from Provence Minna (€9). And for a final bite to eat? A velvety Brillat-Savarin cheesecake with a scoop of redcurrant ice cream that’s sprinkled with hazelnuts, and a marvelous nectarine tart with verbena ice cream and a glass of Riesling Spätlese Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt (€11). Wines by the glass €6-13 (exceptional wines starting at €47 a bottle). Tapas €7-27. // Y.G.