Butter late than never? After five years of butter-free Vietnamese cooking at BÚN, chef Jannis Moons is now so smitten he’s even painted the walls of his small restaurant on Grote Pieter Potstraat a defiant shade of butter yellow. Under the self-proclaimed mantra Alles kan boter (“Everything can be butter”), he rolls out an eclectic multi-course menu in which every dish arrives with fresh bread and a different butter, acting as the thread that ties the meal together. First up: oxtail on rice espuma with pea jus and smoked glazed eel as an amuse-bouche; followed by grilled mackerel with a buttery kombu-dashi sauce with a zing of yuzu and Chinese broccoli, paired with smoked salt butter; pearly white gurnard with creamed cauliflower, a zesty buttery sauce and Italian citrus fruits, served with lemon-hazelnut butter; tender flank steak with shiso bearnaise and artichoke butter, accompanied by – you’ve guessed it – shiso butter; and finally, a sharp rhubarb tart on a crisp shortbread base with surprisingly delicate beet ice cream. · Mina Perlemousse

Feeling thirsty? Sommelier-mixologist Giovanni Corazza (ex-Le Pristine) is on hands with wines such as Altitud, a grenache from Aurelio García (€12 a glass), Camin Blanc, a Languedoc white from Domaine La Coume-Lumet (€44 a bottle), alongside signature cocktails including a Butter Manhattan, a toasted-rice Boulevardier and the Tropical Thunder Tonic with charred pineapple (€16).

Price: Set menus €60-80-95 (three, five and seven courses), food and drink pairings €31-70, cheeses and desserts €14.