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La Bonne Mère

© La Bonne Mère

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We’ve found the best pizza in Marseille… in Cassis! A delicious outrage (are we exaggerating?) masterminded by familiar faces: pizzaiolo Jérémy Piazza, aka Jéjé, and his partner Mahéva Angelmann, who shook up the Phocaean city a decade ago from their base at the foot of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde. Name-checked in Le Fooding as far back as 2016, the duo are back in the spotlight inside what was once La Goccia d’Olio, a former trattoria tucked down an alley in the historic center. And they still don’t mess around when sourcing: organic whole-wheat flour, natural levain prodotto in Italia and top-notch toppings for pizzas with a distinctly Neapolitan soul. The other evening, perched on the sloping little terrace framed by potted olive trees and terracotta walls, we devoured: a Bonne Mère pizza with a San Marzano tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, basil and olive oil, alongside a disarmingly simple, knockout version topped with marinated anchovies and pistou. To finish, a rum baba to die for, all boozy brioche sponge and bliss, plus dangerously moreish iced desserts (coconut, lemon, orange) from a mysterious Italian gelato maker – our lips are sealed! · Madeleine Proust

FEELING THIRSTY? A short list of classici cocktails (Spritz €12, Bellini €10) and local or Italian wines, some organic, like Jasci, a trebbiano d’Abruzzo (€7 a glass), or the local star rosé from Domaine du Paternel (€45 a bottle).

PRICE: Antipasti €5-12, pizzas €16-25, desserts €9-10.

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