Gone is the canteen where political heavyweights and showbiz stars once gathered over mechouia and couscous. La Boule Rouge, a Tunisian Jewish institution from the Macias era, has shed its seventies garb for a sleek, all-black makeover. Now steered by Émile Bonnin and Hugo Audoire (also behind Tempête and Kamo), this slice of Parisian history has been reborn into a chic, intimate chiaroscuro den, with crisp white tablecloths, gleaming silverware and moody candlelight, all underscored by a spot-on cold wave and electro soundtrack. On the plate, chef Simon Andraca (ex-Déviant) riffs freely on the classics, opening that evening with a seductive line-caught bluefin tuna tataki dressed with pickled plum and green oil; followed by meltingly tender grilled octopus snuggled up to a spicy ‘nduja corn salsa; before being caught off guard with the surprisingly addictive pear, whisky and sage clafoutis. · Madeleine Proust

FEELING THIRSTY? Classic cocktails with a twist by Adrien Moudoulaud of Bar Nouveau fame, like the Boule Rouge Collins (vodka, bourbon vanilla, strawberry, sparkling water, €14), and a wine list cut from the same cloth, largely organic and natural: Alpino, an Italian sparkling white from Cantina Furlani (€10 a glass), Onomatopée, a gamay-grolleau from Côme Isambert (€8) or Fourchaume, a chablis premier cru from De Oliveira Lecestre (€70 a bottle).

PRICE: Menu €55-87.