Not content with having mastered plant-based grub canalside with Plan D, Alice Tuyet and her merry veggie collective have headed deeper into the faubourgs and renovated a Belle Époque house (marble tables, plush velvet banquettes, Art Nouveau light fixtures, an atelier windowed wall). In the kitchen, chef Erwan Crier’s (ex-Royal Monceau) creative juices (or rather, sauces) are free-flowing, and they’re the common thread that binds together the menu that’s vegetarian as always. That evening: masterful mushroom and smoked soy paste croquettes accompanied by sauce ravigote; umami-esque orecchiette coated in squash cream with crispy shitake mushrooms nestled in the mix; intoxicating carrots glazed with BBQ sauce on a quilt of almond ricotta; and childish dauphine potatoes topped with Breton seaweed caviar to be dipped in a dill cream… And to finish being amazed by the transformative prowess of the prodigy chef, an insanely-good peanut brownie buried under corn caramel. Proof that you don’t need meat to create great dishes! // Ninsu
FEELING THIRSTY? A harvest of healthy bottles (Le Rouge, a Roanne Gamay from Florent Thinon at €8 a glass, an Alsatian Pinot Blanc from Domaine Neumeyer at €34 a bottle), unless you give in to the cocktails, including the Valtesse mixing gin, jasmine apple syrup and verjus (€13).
PRICES: Plates €12-23, desserts €9-13.
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