La Datcha

A datcha (Russian country house) in the center of Paris’ 11th arrondissement? We’re not saying niet! In this ginormous space built on the ashes of the former L’Autre Café (mosaic tile floors, marble countertop, mezzanine seating section), Ukrainian chef Maksym Zorin sends out plates that are anything but rustic. This time around, the Ducasse-trained chef served an impressive lunch menu from the open kitchen: silky butternut squash (roasted and as a full-bodied jus), plus cauliflower purée, anchovies, trout roe and bottarga; slow-roasted meagre steak surrounded by thoughtful preparations (salsify purée, pomelo quarters, a lovely beetroot and horseradish tartare, kumquats and pickled radish); before a respectable slice of chocolate-hazelnut galette des rois (king cake). Otherwise, served à la carte at both lunch and dinner, there are judiciously revamped classics, including a bortsch-inspired pork pressé, and striking Saturday morning breakfasts dreamt up by Anthony Nguyen – granola, viennoiseries, etc. // Eric Taylor 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A rather classic wine selection (a Corsican vermentino from the Domaine Fiumicicoli at €35 a bottle, a gevrey-chambertin from Harmand-Geoffroy at €105), plus a few cool natural options from the Hérault winery Ribiera (€8 for a glass of white). 
PRICE: : Set menu €29-38 (lunch), à la carte €49-67, carte blanche menu €70-110. Breakfast set menu €25 (Saturday).