Next stop Hanoi! After many a chef’s residency, French-Vietnamese chef Priscilla Trâm (ex-Yard) has finally settled down with her knives in tow on Rue Saint-Maur, caring for her new spot with the help of architect Pablo Goury – pine green tiling, a crimson red ceiling, neon pendant lights…. There, she embarks guests on a thrilling journey between France and Southeast Asia: eggplant, miso and Comté croquettes to dunk in herbed mayo; stratospheric whole tomato marinated in dashi broth, with pickled cucumber and wakame seaweed (an unforgettable dish!); chicken wings glazed in fish sauce and lime; and creamy orzo risotto with a brown crab and shrimp head bisque, with a pizazz of pecorino. Just when you’re feeling full, a badass Basque cheesecake tempts you with one more bite, though we would have happily tried the char siu-inspired glazed veal sweetbreads, or the bok choy on buttery toasted brioche. A Trâmway named desire… // Jane In
FEELING THIRSTY? : A lovely selection of low-intervention bottles: a sylvaner from the Domaine Eblin-Fuchs (€7 a glass), L’Eau Qui Dort, a pinot noir / gamay blend (€42 a bottle), or a crémant d’Alsace produced by Christian Binner (€52). The French wakaze sakes are also worth exploring (€12 a glass, €65 a bottle).
PRICE: : Appetizers €8-15, mains €20-35, desserts €8-10.
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