Panorama

When it comes to dual-purpose establishments, we’re interested in the restaurant-bakery category! Grégoire Larenaudie (ex-BangBang and Frenchie Bar à Vins) and Pierre-Louis Sauvaige (ex-Marchon and Frenche Bar à Vins as well) have gently remade this neighborhood café – bare and latticed walls, hanging globe light fixtures – turning it into a haven for lovers of sourdough and good wine. In the bakery and the kitchen respectively, you’ll find Arthur Coquelle, who trained at Ten Belles, and Sebastian Cusick-Kampmann, seen at Le Servan and Inver Restaurant in Scotland, baking things like pinsetta (Roman pizza) topped with slow-roasted datterini tomatoes, anchovies from Cantabria, za’atar and oregano. Hungry for more? There’s focaccia topped with veal tartare and a charred scallion emulsion; a tartine loaded with roasted carrots, labneh and vin jaune sabayon; or crisp haricots verts in a César dressing, pimped out with golden croutons, Parmesan and nasturtium leaves; before a gluten-free dessert made with a roasted white peach base, fromage blanc, crispy meringue, purple basil and fig leaf oil. On Saturdays during the day, there are well-made sandwiches (the BLT in particular is worth checking out), and bread is sold all week long (if there’s any left, that is)! // Yanath Kandal

FEELING THIRSTY? : A natural wine list that’s got it all figured out: Tout Naturellement Macéré, a skin-contact wine from the Domaine Beck-Hartweg (€9 a glass), Terre De 3, an Anjou chenin from Terra Vita Vinum (€42 a bottle), Garnacha, a grenache and cinsault blend from Antoine Clavel (€45)… And to stay on theme, there’s a Gin Bread Tonic, a cocktail infused with toast (€12).
PRICE: : Plates €8-17, desserts €10.