La Marine des Goudes

Goudes news! On the road to Cap Croisette, the local fish lovers’ institution La Marine des Goudes has been given a makeover by serial entrepreneurs Paul Langlère (Sépia, Julis and Cécile Food Club) and Thibault Hillmeyer (Julis and Cécile Food Club as well) – an immaculate facade simply adorned with an illustration by the M/B. agency, blue and white bistro chairs, white tablecloths and fine silverware. Running this serious beachside spot, chef Camille Gandolfo (ex-Les Bords de Mer, Sépia and InterContinental) sends out straightforward but expertly made Marseille classics: some seductive mullet ceviche paired with kumquat rounds and a flavorful tomato water with chimichurri; delicious bouillabaisse (no need to reserve in advance, featuring unlimited rockfish) made from a recipe that has hardly changed since 1848, only slightly modernized to include a trio of local fish (organic red mullet, monkfish and wolfish from a pisciculture in Frioul) atop a few tender potatoes and slices of fennel, all paired with a classic duo of rouille and croutons; spaghetti alle vongole worthy of an excellent trattoria, with lemon zest and chervil; before a slice of rather listless strawberry tart. // Maude Zarella

FEELING THIRSTY? : A sunny southern wine menu: white or rosé from the Domaine Fontenille (€6 or €7 a glass); Cévenol pet’ nat’ from the Domaine Berguerolles (€32 a bottle); or even Inizia, an unusual “blouge,” aka a cofermentation of organic Corsican varietals from Le Clos Signadore (€38).
PRICE: : Bouillabaisse €49, lobster menu €70 (the claws as an appetizer, the tail for the mail course), kids’ menu €15, appetizers €10-20, mains €25-35, sides €7-14, desserts and cheeses €10.