Daytime set: a charming open-air guinguette basking in the glow of Albi cathedral, catching the last golden rays. Starring: Le Bontemps, the suburban restaurant formerly known as La Planque de l’Évêque, now reborn since its late-2024 takeover by rising chef Pascal Louw (who’s clocked up stints in a dozen restaurants across Brussels, Paris, Toulouse, Gaillac and Marseille, notably at Épicerie L’Idéal). Lights, camera… Action! Take #1: a chilled tomato and scallion gazpacho, neatly coiffed with grated Comté. Take #2: flaking redhorse (the Rolls Royce of trout) reclining on a swoosh of vegetable purée with a slick of eggplant caviar making a cameo. Final scene: a croquant de Cordes (a dainty almond biscuit and specialty of the neighboring village) sidling up to a scoop of orange blossom and pistachio ice cream. The verdict? A tight script, confident direction and scene-stealing stuff. Whether it’s a winter screening in the dining room or a summer showing on the terrace, Le Bontemps delivers an Oscar-worthy performance. · Colin Sullivan

FEELING THIRSTY? Local wines and a few from further afield: Esperluette, a sauvignon blanc from Domaine Pech del Cel (€6 a glass), a verdanel from Domaine Plageoles (€31 a bottle) or a pure skin-contact mauzac from Domaine de Brin (€28). Something softer? Opt for Tomarchio Chinotto (€4 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Set menus €19-23 (lunch), appetizers €6-14, mains €20-25, desserts €6-7 (dinner).