At Le Corbier, the new secret spot in the Sablon neighborhood, ignore the blinding spot lights, because what really sets the tone is the plush velvet, colorful carpeting and starched tablecloths. It’s the kind of bourgeois speakeasy where neon lights don’t have a say. Whisper, savor and linger. Basically, surrender to it. For the first thrill, chef Olivier Chanteux fires out some frogs legs sautéed in garlic butter, with just the right amount of persillade to revive your childhood memories. Next, an Irish ribeye, grilled in the dining room, right before your very eyes, perfectly tender, juicy and charred as should be, and served with crispy, golden, twice-cooked fries; and if you’ve any room left, there’s a classic French toast just like grandma used to make, topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and salted caramel sauce. It’s rustic, it’s dignified, it’s delightful! We leave Le Corbier rosy-cheeked, our hearts full (and bellies too!) and with a faint trace of wood smoke on our shirt collars. The urge to go back is already nagging! · Gordon Bleu

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list that’s 100% traditional, with not a pet’ nat’ in sight: Les Maisons Dieu, a pinot noir from the Moissenet-Bonnard estate (€15 a glass), Cru Bourgeois, a médoc from Château Lassus (€53 a bottle) and a 2022 Chianti Pèppoli from the Antinori estate (€64). Otherwise, there’s a Garibaldini mocktail combining alcohol-free Martini, orange juice and ginger beer.

PRICE: Starters €20-28, mains €29-45, meats €95-135 (for two), desserts €12-17