A chef sets sail! After fifteen years at the palatial Le Clarence and a lifetime in Paris packed into a suitcase, Christophe Pelé has landed in Finistère, sporting rose-tinted shades, bare calves out on Kérity harbor. It’s here that he’s taken the helm of Le Nautilus, tipped off by fishmonger Laurent Daniel and Breton restaurateur Matthieu Garrel (Le Bélisaire in Paris), both partners in the venture: an indoor-outdoor bistro with an elevated everyday feel, serving up the sea at its freshest, with laser-like precision. Expect three-, four- or five-course menus that stop you in your tracks, plate after plate, put together alongside Malo Toupin, another Clarence escapee – as is sommelier Thomas Rosse. A big dog snoring under the table, a kid curled up in the Chesterfield and the kind of little galley you leave with your heart as full as the moon over the pier – more than enough to forgive a service that’s still finding its sea legs. · Nora Furia

Ate: Flame-seared mackerel with feta, tamarind and a tangy jus; beautifully simple moules marinière; an umami-packed monkfish steak Armorican-style with house-made ketchup; and for one last blast of briny bliss, a prized cut of bluefin tuna belly, barely grilled and scattered with parsley.

Price: Lunch menu €38 (weekdays only), dinner and weekend menus starting at €48. Snacks and plates on the terrace €5-14.