After cooking with the stars (Michel Trama, Nicolas Masse), Aveyron-native Julien Amat settled down in a spot a few minutes outside of Agen, in the Castelculier mall. In this luminous space with white walls, globe light fixtures and modern furniture, he treats guests to cuisine that’s a cross between bistronomy and fine dining. An example the day we went for lunch, with the €29 prix-fixe menu: a vivifying crab, coriander and granny smith apple ravioli topped with trout roe and surrounded by a coconut, ginger and lemongrass emulsion; followed by a superb plancha-grilled sea bream fillet placed atop zucchini, preserved lemon and pine nut sauce vierge, all flirting with burrata sprinkled with Timut pepper; and for the very simple finale, an excellent chilled nougat with Grand Marnier, caramelized nougatine and strawberry coulis. // G.R.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural and conventional wines: Parallèle 45, a Rhone red from Paul Jaboulet (€6 a glass), La Pie Colette, a Côtes-de-Duras white from Mouthes-Le Bihan (€24 a bottle), L’Envie, a Cahors red from the Domaine Haut-Monplaisir (€30)…
PRICE: Set menu €15-19 (weekday lunch), menus €29 (lunch), €40-75 (dinner and weekends) and €20 (Sunday night).
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