Let’s head to the Île de Cosne, where accomplices Édouard Bergeon and Loïc Martin (who already run Robert and Martin in Paris), along with Rachel Lakehal, opened up a spacious guinguette-style restaurant overlooking the Loire River. In this former all-you-can-eat buffet (tiled dining room, large terrace) where tourists joyfully mingle with regulars of all ages, it’s all about thoughtfully-made local food! Take the night we went as an example, with a delicate oeuf meurette (poached egg in a red wine sauce); a duck gizzard salad that was a little heavy on the dressing; tender andouille from Jargeau (the local specialty) cooked on the barbecue and served with (frozen) fries; before a plump floating island for dessert. Take note, the financial-crisis-busting weekly menu features a main course for €10.90, served at lunchtime from Wednesday to Friday (expect something like a burger or mussels and fries). // Ana Kirpad 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Wines from the Pays d’Oc and, more importantly, bottles of natural wine: a poulsard-trousseau blend from Jérôme Arnoux (€27), La Nouette, an Anjou chenin produced by Abel Benmaamar (€29) or a pet’ nat’ from the Domaine de Cambalu near Amboise (€32).   
PRICE: : À la carte €19-34.